London’s Dishoom chef makes his dining debut in Dubai.
One of the best ways to check whether an Indian restaurant is any good is by taking my Indian parents. Khadak in Dubai didn’t just pass the test, but it broke the barometer. The concept has been created by chef Naved Nasir, who is behind London’s success story, Dishoom. Now, he has brought his terrific talents to his new restaurant in Jumeirah – and we’re not judging if you order seconds.
Khadak spans indoor and outdoor seats, and wouldn’t look out of place in India. The venue has an old-school charm, thanks to fairy lights, old radios and folk songs. The staff were warm and welcoming, and on hand to help with recommendations. During our visit, the restaurant proved popular with Arab and Indian families.
Khadak celebrates India’s rich culture and cuisine. At its heart are rarely seen recipes, which hail from legendary food streets, traditional weddings and a bygone era. The dishes and design share unheard stories from the people behind the food, and the menu feels like a historical document.
Chef Naved is passionate about the project, and the attention to detail has paid off. He explains: “With Khadak there’s a lot more to say and show. It gives a canvas for me to paint a picture. Every city in India has something unique, and there are shops and stalls that have been running for more than 100 years. We are paying homage to those food stalls, and capturing the essence of their specialisms”.
The menu spans small plates; grills and griddles; mains; sides; breads; and desserts. While it is tempting to go for classic dishes, we’d recommend opting for the creative courses. Starters included the Broccoli and Pomelo Bhel, which reimagined chaat. Morel Cheese Kulcha with Truffle Butter wouldn’t look out of place in an Italian restaurant. And, the Radio Café Kheema Pao was a glorious green goat dish.
Mains are a hearty affair, and spectacular for sharing. The Paneer Anjeer Tikka came with soft sweet cheese, and Malia Chingri’s grilled king prawns were bursting with flavour. Kathal Ki Haleem was a surprise success – it was slow-cooked and spicy and made us rethink jackfruit. If you’re a fan of Dishoom, the Khadak Daal brings to life the black lentil hit from London.
Indian desserts are traditionally sickly sweet. So much so that they are best avoided, like Sheikh Zayed Road at rush hour. The Kulfi Falooda was both cool and comforting. Drawing inspiration from North India, it combined ice cream and vermicelli with rose and strawberry jam. Served with dry ice theatrics and petals on top, it was fun and fragrant. And, it got the parents asking, “can we order another?”
Khadak’s drinks menu is inspired by colourful characters, each with their own backstory. The drinks is non-alcoholic and combines classic cocktails with an Indian twist. The list ranges from Ann’s Martini to Rajini’s Blazing Colada.
Khadak in Dubai: if it’s good enough for an Indian mata (mum) and pita (dad), it’s good enough for you.
GO: Visit www.khadak.com for more information.
